On Vacation Until Monday, February 1, 2016

HAPPY HOLIDAYS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR!

Winter Boots!

Nell Boot - $540

Vegetable-tanned Italian leather clog

Northface Thermoball Utility Boot - $99

 Fully insulated boot that features a waterproof construction, a protective shell and ThermoBall™ powered by PrimaLoft® insulation for warmth in cold, wet conditions.

northface.com

Jambu Artic Boot - $169

This tall-shafted boot is lined from top to toe in faux fur and complete with a memory foam footbed for ultimate comfort. Made with vegan leather and a partially recycled rubber outsole.

http://www.jambu.com/item/arctic/15atc/001



 KEEN Women's Durand Polar WP - $200 

The 400 gram KEEN.WARM insulation, woolly Thermal Heat Shield footbed and faux fur collar keep things toasty. Snowy icy slush puddles? This boot’s KEEN.DRY membrane is waterproof and breathable, and the dual compound snow and ice grip rubber sole keeps you on your feet.

http://www.keenfootwear.com/product/shoes/women/durand-polar-wp

Gogo Bootie in Black - $399

Made with black Italian microfiber with contrast stitching. 

 http://charmone.com/product/gogo-bootie-in-black/








Danner Marine 8" Mojave - $290

Handmade.  Rough-out, full-grain leather. Vibram® Sierra outsoles.

http://www.danner.com/product/womens/danner-marine-8-mojave.html

Coats I Love!

While here in New York, we are still enjoying temperatures in the 50's during December, we know that the frigid cold will be here soon.  These are some coats that get the job done.  These eco-friendly coats are not only warm but also fashionable! 

Down Stole - $280

The fine, recycled polyester shell and premium, Responsible Down Standard 800-fill down packs down so small you can toss its warmth on anytime. Available in other colors.

http://www.nau.com/winter/down-stole

                                

 Synner Cape - $290

A new twist on the classic poncho silhouette, the Synner Cape offers versatility and warmth with a modern, relaxed fit. Crafted from weather- resistant recycled poly with sustainable synthetic insulation.

http://www.nau.com/winter/w-synner-cape

 

The Nicole Waxed Insulated Winter Bomber - $373.50

Rain-resistant & Windproof, plus insulated with 100 gram Primaloft encased in windproof ripstop, plus lined in fleece for extra coziness.

http://vautecouture.com/collections/womens-coats/products/the-bomber-jacket-in-waxed-canvas

Luxe Collar Coat - $479.00

Made of alpaca and wool with low-impact dyes. 

https://www.indigenous.com/fashion/womens/outerwear-coats-jackets/outerwear-coats-black-luxe-collar-coat-eco-friendly/organic-fair-trade-eco-friendly/

 

Funnel Neck Jacket in Eggshell Recycled Nylon Puffer - $183.20    

Light, soft and lustrous. The puffer that uses 70% recycled fiber, 14% from discarded fishing nets. 

http://www.eileenfisher.com/EileenFisher/collection/ShopByCategory/Outerwear/PRD_F5GGR-C0538M/Funnel+Neck+Jacket+in+Eggshell+Recycled+Nylon+Puffer.jsp 

 

Patagonia Vosque 3-in-1 Parka - $429

This casual, waterproof, 3-in-1 parka has a tweedy-looking nylon/polyester shell and is insulated with 100-g Thermogreen® 100% polyester (90% recycled).

http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/womens-vosque-3-in-1-parka?p=28566-0-RKL 

Conscious Buying

It's so easy to fall into the trap of continuous consumption. 

Today, I nearly lost my iPhone while out picking up Christmas decorations.  The phone fell out of my jacket pocket.  I immediately thought.  "Mmm...I'm carrying around my phone, money, ID in my pockets.  I could lose these. I need a clutch.  ASAP."

So I went into the nearest store and started to look at clutches.  I found a few inexpensive and very cheaply made clutches.  I picked them up, felt them, and then put them down.  Thank goodness.   I didn't want to buy one because the quality was poor, they were vinyl, and believed that they were manufactured in a process that goes against being sustainable.

I woke up.  I thought, you know, at home I know I have a clutch.  I just have to look for it.  I don't need to buy this.  The "Gotta Have It" hysteria was over.  I went on to find some ornaments, as I had planned.

The problem with shopping is that it is so bombarding.  In stores, often, you feel a sense of lack and you want to buy what you see.  You don't have something and you need to get it, now.  That's one of the main reasons why we so have so much in our homes that we don't use or need. However, when you brought the item, it seemed to fill an important need.

This is why we need to really slow down when we shop.  Of course, we are going to feel that we have to have it, but if you walk away from the item, engage in something else, and ask yourself, "Do I really need it?" you can, keep walking away and not buy it. 

When I walked away from the clutch, I achieved three things. I stopped bringing home clutter.  I stopped bringing home cheap stuff that doesn't fit my style.  And, I stopped wasting my money.  For my commitment to sustainable fashion, I didn't buy a product that was going to eventually get thrown out and go into a landfill and I didn't support designers who aren't sustainable. 

We have to stop and think before we buy.  Americans are going more into debt; currently the average household carries about $7,000 in credit card debt.  We're filling up our landfills.  Unfortunately, only one out of every ten items that we donate is resold.  Most go to landfills or to developing countries.  We're contributing to exploitative labor.  Overseas labor costs are less than one percent of a product's retail price.  There is a big problem with child labor, forced labor, and inadequate worker protection against job hazards like chemical exposure.  And, pollution is another major problem within the fashion industry with so many products, especially synthetics. 

If you would like more information on how to curtail your buying, The Center for the New American Dream offers several resources. 

https://www.newdream.org/

Sustainable Gifts for the Holidays

I have found some wonderful gifts that I would like to share with you.  These gifts are all in the category, of course, as sustainable.  They are either new and made with recycled or eco-friendly materials or vintage.  Enjoy!

Hexagon-shaped wallet with multiple compartments in Italian holographic printed leather and vegetable tanned leather - $115

http://imago-a.com/products/n31-hexa-wallet-platinum-white

Bike Chain Bowl for that bike lover.  Handmade from upcycled bike chain, this bowl makes a distinctive spot for keys and small, personal items.  $84

http://www.uncommongoods.com/product/bike-chain-bowl

 

Handmade exotic biblical olive wood, over 2,000 years old,  from the Holy Land.  No trees have been cut.  Wood is from needed pruning.   Made by 15-year old girl.  Other pens from sacred woods and materials available, i.e. repurposed wood from the USS Intrepid.  

http://www.pensink.com/Home.php

OMWA Maasai Traditional Earring/Necklace - $80

http://www.idiadega.com/store/p17/OMWA_Maasai_Traditional_Earring%2FNecklace.html

Tomon cuff is a mix of Maasai elegance & urban modernity.  Hand-beaded.  $20

http://www.idiadega.com/store/p9/Tomon_Ear_Cuff_.html

 Eye pillows filled with flaxseed, lavender and a blend of various herbs - $32

 http://gammafolk.com/collections/ready-to-ship/products/eye-pillow

Solstice in Black. Constructed using mill-end designer surplus fabrics. $195

http://www.terrygraziano.com/products/solstice-in-black

Vintage Chanel Pearl CC Light Gold Dangle Piercing Earrings - $320

https://www.tradesy.com/accessories/chanel-authentic-chanel-pearl-cc-light-gold-dangle-piercing-earrings-9753307/?utm_source=OG&utm_campaign=LAM

What's Up with Upcycling?

In the United States, 12 million tons of textile waste goes to landfills annually, with average family producing nearly 70 pounds of this waste per year.  More than 300 million pairs of shoes are discarded each year, according to the US Department of Interior (http://www.saccounty.net/news/latest-news/Pages/Put-Your-Old-Good-Shoes-in-a-New-Line-of-Work.aspx).  While this seems unbelievable, 2.3 million pairs of shoes are purchased each day.  Synthetic clothing can take years to break down in a landfill.  For example, nylon takes between 30 to 40 years to biodegrade and a pair of rubber soled shoes takes from 50 to 80 years. 

What can be done to keep textiles out of landfills?

Upcycling is becoming more and more popular in fashion.  It goes beyond recycling an item that has fulfilled its purpose and making it into something new.  Upcycling is about elevating the item and making it even better and more special that it was in its original state.  In the art world, the most famous example was “Fontaine” from Marcel Duchamp, where he took a urinal and redid it to emerge as a fountain as he said he had “created a new thought for that object."   In fashion, one of the leaders of upcycling has been Martin Margiela who is famous for his exclusive reinvented pieces that are part of his couture fashion brand. 

In fashion, designers are learning about sustainability.   In fact, it is required in many college curricula.  Also, there are more grants and awards being offered to eco-friendly designers.  The EcoChic Design Award is the world’s largest sustainable fashion design competition in which emerging designers recreate garments form textile waste (each designer select 4 pieces waste piles to use in the competition).  The award winner will be announced in January 2016.

reMade USA (http://remadeusa.shannonsouth.com/)is a company custom makes old leather jackets into handbags.  They take the worn jacket that you have had for years or an old sentimental jacket that’s just sitting in the closet, and make it into something special.  One woman had her son’s leather jacket that was a staple in his closet, made into a leather handbag.  “I came close to discarding the jacket and now I am glad I did not…my son died in April 2010, five weeks shy of his 30^th birthday,” said one customer named Kathy.   Another customer said that she had her aunt’s leather jacket, her aunt died when she was 7.  “I am overjoyed to have the bag and the daily reminder I will have of her,” said another customer. 

Reco Jeans (http://www.recojeans.com/) upcycles fabric scraps to make jeans, using 60% less cotton than typical jean manufacturers.  The company was started by two brothers who used to play in textile factories where their parents worked. They would find scraps of fabric and make them into beautiful creations. That's where they got the idea to take scraps and make them into something new and wonderful.  The company prides itself on its eco-friendly fashion initiatives, "It takes over 1800 gallons of water to grow just enough cotton for 1 pair of jeans.  It takes 0 gallons to upcycle."

Looptworks (http://www.looptworks.com/) upcycles products into premium goods.  “We don't just turn waste into something. We turn it into something beautiful and useful for your everyday life,” according to the company.  One of their most popular collections, the Carry on Collection, is leather handbags from Alaska Airlines old leather airline seats.   “Since it’s upcycled, the Carry On Collection eliminates the need to make new leather, which saves an estimated 1,500 gallons of water per product,” says Looptworks.  Each piece has a lifetime warranty. 

In the words of Margiela, “Go through your wardrobe, make do and mend.”

 The story behind the bag

"I can't begin to tell you how much the bags you made from my brother's coat mean to me. Mark and I were 18 months apart in age and he has been "gone" since he was 25 years old. That was 32 years ago and I have had his coat ever since. It never fit and/or appealed to any of my children so it has just been moved from attic to closet and back again for all these years. The hobo and clutch are beautiful works of art. My daughter, who never met her uncle, will be touched beyond belief to have something of his - repurposed in a way that suits a 23 year old woman. Thank you so much for your artistry and caring."

- Ellen S.

Reco Jeans produces eco-conscious jeans from the denim to zippers and does not use leather on jeans.

Looptworks "Carry On Collection" are repurposed seats from Alaska Airlines 

Bonnie Chen modeling clothing of finalists in the global Ecochic Design Award competition http://www.ecochicdesignaward.com/

Marcel Duchamp, Fountain, 1917

 

Martin Margiela, 2009, Denim Jacket made from various recycled jeans.  

Silk! I'm Not Afraid of You Anymore!

There was a time when I used to see a gorgeous silk garment and want it so bad! But, I'd run away from it because I was afraid of the label, "100% Silk.  Dry Clean Only."  I hated dry cleaning, first because of the environmental hazards, the thought of cleaning clothes that you are going to put on your body in toxic chemicals, yuck!  But also because of the cost.  If I buy a $25 silk tee and need to dry clean it every time I wear it at a cost of almost $10, that shirt quickly becomes one of the most expensive shirts in my closet.  Also, it's a hassle for me to get my clothes dry cleaned.  By the time I take the clothes there, then wait for them to be cleaned, and then go back to pick the clothes up...it takes too much time out of my busy days.  With our busy lifestyles today, any extra errands that take you out of your way, that involves carrying around stuff, and waiting...if I don't have to do it, the better.

Now that I am learning more about fabrics, I've come to realize that I really don't need to dry clean silk.  Silk fabric has been produced over 5,000 years, similar to other natural fabrics like wool.  People have always hand washed silk. 

The use of non-water chemicals to clean clothing - dry cleaning - began less than two hundred years ago, in 1855.  The common solvent used to dry clean is toxic tetrachloroethylene also known as perchloroethylene (commonly referred to as PERC).  According to the US Environmental Protection Agency, PERC is possible carcinogen and also can cause non-cancer health damage.

The natural fibers of silk work well with luke warm water.  Hand washing silk refreshes the fabric as well as improves its drape.  Wash silk with a very small amount of shampoo or soap.  Do not soak silk to protect any dyes.  In addition, most natural fabrics do not react well to water changes so stay with one temperature, for example continue your wash in lukewarm water, do not rinse in cold water. Use a few tablespoons of white vinegar, if necessary to remove any yellowing of fabric and revive color. 

So don't be afraid to buy silk.  It feels great on your skin and can be either superbly elegant or fantastically casual.  Just wear it!

For more details about washing silk, please view the below pdf.
 http://www.thaisilks.com/images/sales/WashSilk.pdf

 

Pink Gradient-Print Silk Hand-Batik T-strap dress - $425

Designed with a low cut back t-strap detail. Pair it with our Pink splash cotton  Hand-Batik dress for a unique and elegant evening look.  http://studiooneeightynine.com/




 

Sienna Wrap Dress, Animal Chevron Silk Chiffon - $192  

http://www.stylesaint.com/shop/s/sienna-wrap-dress-2/animal-chevron-silk-chiffon

Quality Versus Quantity

Have you ever heard of the 80/20 rule in fashion?  Well, in style it refers to the occurrence that people wear 20% of their clothes 80% of the time.  Whoa!  That means that 80% of your clothes typically go unworn.  That's a lot of clothes.  For me, I was typical; I had about 8 pairs of jeans of which I was consistently wearing about one or two.  I had coats, dresses, pants, skirts, suits that I was not wearing from year to year, yet keeping in my closet. 

Why is this important?  First, I'm wasting time buying clothes that I'm not wearing, second, I'm wasting money on clothes that I'm not wearing, and thirdly wasting the resources that went into making clothes. Moreover, when I finally get rid of these clothes, many of them will wind up in the international used clothes market in developing countries --- contributing to the destruction of their own fashion industries by their markets being flooded by cheap, used clothes from industrialized nations. I remember when I first started realizing how the access to cheap clothing was oftentimes wasteful.  This past summer, I saw a pair of cute, pale pink cap toe ballet flats at a discount store for $4.99.  I thought, "Great, I can buy five of these and when they fall apart, I can just put on another one." What waste.  "Why not just buy a pair of good shoes that would last?" I think now.  I did buy those shoes.  Five of them.  And I only wore one because they hurt so much, they didn't have any sole support of course, and they were falling apart almost within a week. 

When I went to the stores today, and saw so many clothes during this Christmas season, I just had to take a step back and remember there is no point in buying clothes if you're not going to wear them.  And, so many of my family and friends this season are saying, "Don't buy me clothes, I have enough clothes."  I think we really need to take a look at how we buy and each person figure out for themselves are they buying well and do they really need what they are purchasing. 

Mass media is not going to tell you to stop.  The message is buy, buy, buy.  There is a big push for people to spend in order to keep the economy rolling.  But keep yourself financially rolling.  If you don't need it, don't get it.   And, if you do need it, buy something that is quality that will look good after you wash it, that won't lose its shape or color, and that will fit & feel good so that it won't be a part of your 80% rule.

      

Cashmere Turtleneck - $170 

Mongolian lightweight and warm cashmere that has a loose drape.  Features an 8" turtleneck that is long enough to be doubled and fully fashioned shoulder seams toward the top of the back.

https://www.everlane.com/

                                  

                                        

 

Ascent Top - $395.00

Structured short-sleeve tee in soft, supple unlined black lambskin, with black-on-black satin zip closure at center back. Sewn in New York of Italian vegetable-tanned leather. http://www.titaniainglis.com/